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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.